April 9, 2005 – Fourth Day in Ireland
Would You Like to Buy a Paper?
As we sat patiently on the bus waiting for the for the ferry to cross the River Shannon, a woman approached.
“Would you like to buy a paper?”
“No thank you dear,” replied Tony.
“Can I come aboard?”
“I’d rather you didn’t.”
“Well I’m certainly glad James Connolly died so you could have a job!!” With that she stormed off.
Tony grumbled a little and I asked, “Was he the driver before you?” This made him laugh. James Connolly was a leader in the 1916 Easter Rising against the British as the Irish fought for independence. It was during this time the Shin Fein and the IRA were formed.
The history of the British and their treatment of the Irish people came up often. The famous potato famine, which lead to the millions of people emigrating to America, was wholly avoidable. The British land owners held up ships filled with food leaving the poor people in the villages to basically starve to death.
We crossed the river on the Shannon Dolphin. Once we were under way, the gift shop and snack bar opened. I wanted a bag of Skittles, but resisted. Too early in the day for such sugary goodness. We arrived in the sleepy town of Lahinch for lunch at O’Looney’s. Outside we were greeted by a large golden dog. Inside was the loud stepdancing of local schoolgirls above us.
As we sat overlooking the ocean we joked, “Oh ya gotta come for the summer. It’s delightful. August 7th from 1:00 to 2:00 PM!”
After eating, we made our way to the Cliffs of Moher. Along the way we passed thru the ruins of villages laid to waste during the famine.
The Cliffs of Moher & The Burren
The Cliffs of Moher are, for lack of a better term, awesome. These dark sandstone cliffs with a sheer drop of over 600 feet stretch along the Atlantic for about five miles.
The views are spectacular all along the trail up to O’Brien’s Tower. The tower, which was built in 1853, is said to have the finest view at its top. However I really didn’t feel it was worth the €2.00 or the battle thru the swarms of people. Speaking of people, why is it so many of them can be so, well, stupid. I saw countless numbers of daredevils walking beyond the barriers and even standing on the very edges of the cliffs for photos. Deaths due to people losing their footing or being swept up by a gust of wind are not uncommon.
We continued on our way to Galway thru the Burren, a vast limestone plateau resembling an alien planet which covers much of County Clare. Formed at the end of the last Ice Age, it is in the process of becoming a National Park. Off shore the Aran Islands can be seen. So long as the weather is clear.
Aran is a place of the past, rich with the Irish language and culture. Legend has it that Galway Bay was once a large lake called Loch Lurgan. Centuries ago, it’s banks eroded leaving the three Aran Islands stranded to battle the mighty waves of the Atlantic. Sadly we did not have any time to visit. However it is recommended to spend a few days there.
We stopped for a pint at Monks in Ballyvaughan, a charming little fishing and farming community established in the 10th century. There we met five-year-old Katie and her family on holiday from Dublin. Judging by the designs on her shirt, jacket, pants, etc., little Katie was a big fan of fairies.
Monks is a cute, split level pub and restaurant decorated with a strong nautical theme. Those of us sitting outside enjoyed a view of the bay with the Burren in the background as we sipped our beer.
Galway: A Younger, Drunker Hoboken
We checked into the Brennan’s Yard Hotel in Galway. It’s an unassuming place, tucked away in an alley just off of the city center. The room was the smallest of the 3 hotels and this was obviously the oldest building—or at least the one still awaiting renovation—judging from the fixtures.
The elevator fit three, maybe four people without luggage. If you’re going to take the stairs, keep one thing in mind. Buildings in Ireland count the ground floor as ‘zero’ and what we’d call the second floor, they call the first. After several pints, I found myself a bit baffled when looking for my room.
Once we settled in I went in search of an ATM. I walked thru a small alley on to Quay Street (pronounced ‘key’) which is a pedestrian walkway that leads to the center of the shopping district. The name of the street got me to thinking. Was it’s name a way to weed out the tourists? Like Houston Street in Manhattan?
This is a modern, upscale little city. Plenty of shops, restaurants and of course pubs to choose from. Most of the shopping area is shut off to cars making it very easy to get around on foot. There is also a University here which some say is what keeps the city young and vibrant.
My only real complaint, and I know it makes me sound like an old fart, is that Galway to me seems like nothing more than a younger, drunker Hoboken. The drinking age is 18 and the pubs all seemed to have a ‘frat party’ feel to them. Filled mostly with boys binge drinking and ogling women. Fights among the lonely testosterone and beer filled youth were inevitable. Not to mention the crowds.
We all ate dinner in the hotel restaurant and it was quite delicious. Some of the group ordered what were supposed to be BBQ wings. Imagine everyone’s surprise when they were served three drumsticks doused in BBQ sauce. They all said it was very good, just funny.
One great thing about this tour is three of our five dinners were included in the ticket. As were all of the breakfasts. Except that first one in Cork.
Afterwards, when everyone was immediately of to the first pub, Morgan and I wanted to walk off dinner and see a little bit more of the town. We walked around for a while and, when our bladders dictated, we tried to find a not-so-crowded place to pee and have a pint. After several blocks of searching, we finally stopped by the Dew Drop Inn, the only place with an opening at the bar, we once again noticed the patrons glued to the TV coverage of golf.
I suppose living in Hoboken and spending much of my adult social life in the NYC bars, this scene has grown tired for me. I prefered the time we spent in the smaller towns where I felt as though I could actually talk to people.
The Quays & The Hot Dog Incident
Our next stop was The Quays (again … ‘keys’). A grand old pub with the feel of a cathedral inside. This multi-level complex of refreshment and entertainment comes complete with stained glass, pews and heavy, dark wood throughout. It is a place wrought with character and characters
There were these three men who were utterly fascinated with my being from NY and what must have been a bachelorette party. Either that or these women always wear penises on their heads.
Oh and they have an ATM right in the bar. If you’re traveling to Europe from America, resist the temptation to buy Euros before your trip or at the airport upon arriving. You’ll get the best rate from your ATM card and there are no fees. Unless your bank charges you and even so, that fee is a lot less than what those shysters charge in the banks or exchange centers. My bank doesn’t charge so I was golden. I learned this lesson the hard way in London a couple of years ago.
The evening ended as usual in the hotel bar after stopping for an unfortunate hot dog at Marios Takeout. Much like the pizza in Killarney, the hot dogs here are to be avoided. Thick, not nearly cooked enough. Colorless with flavor leaving a lot to be desired. I should have known there was trouble afoot when the girl behind the counter was confused as to why I only wanted mustard and no ketchup. Why didn’t I just get the fish ‘n’ chips?
Back at the hotel, the Spanish Bar is an interesting place. Modern design, dark wood spiced with Picassos and bright colors yet purely Irish in its attitude and music. A fun, comfortable place to have a late nightcap.
Irish Road Trip & Pub Tour Intro
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