This sleepy little rural village in The Catskills of New York is home to more bookstores per capita than any place else.
Situated on the north western corner of The Catskills in New York, about three and a half hours from NYC, is the cozy hideaway called Hobart. Established as a Book Village in 2005, it is exactly what it sounds like. A tiny, rural town of less than 400 residents, home to a half dozen specialty bookstores, a couple of gift shops, and a whole lot of charm. However, this spotlight does come with a handful of caveats for anyone choosing to visit. While it is a charming spot for bibliotheques, it is a far cry from the bustling tourist hub most of the posts on social media would have you think. With that said, on with the spotlight.
The Drive Up:
On my way to The Catskills, I decided to avoid toll roads, partly because I’m a cheap bastard but also to take in the scenic value. So when I finally was out of Hudson, Bergen, and Rockland counties, the drive really opened up. Long, winding country roads thru farms and mountains. It is amazing to me how many of these single-lane, two-way, no-shoulder, blindly winding roads have a speed limit of 55 mph. It was a world of difference from the strict grid layout of one-way streets in Hoboken, NJ with its citywide speed limit of 20 mph. Mile after mile after mile without seeing another car did ease my stress. I shut off my radio, rolled down my windows, and just basked in it all. Blue skies, clean air, rolling hills, grazing cows, and as I said — no other cars.
I arrived in The Hobart Book Village in Hobart, NY to the immediate realization that it is tiny. I mean really, really tiny. I knew it was before setting off on my trip, but the stark reality was stunning. Let me start by saying I came to adore this little village in the short time I spent there. I also approached this trip with the specific intention to read, relax, and reflect. Nothing more. Admittedly I wasn’t truly prepared for just how small and sleepy it would be, but that’s likely due to the fact that I live in a city that crams a population of over 60,000 people into a mere square mile. The culture shock was real despite my research beforehand.
Book Village History:
In 2001, William Adams and his wife Diana were traveling near Hobart on vacation and decided to rent a building in the village, opening Hobart’s first bookstore in 2002. A few years later, a local resident named Don Dales gained local support in a plan to emulate a market village in Wales called Hay-on-Wye, itself described as a ‘town of books’. Hobart, NY was officially designated a book village in 2005. Since that time, Hobart has been home to a handful of bookstores and gift shops earning a reputation as a retail tourist destination. Not bad for a town that only has about 150 households. More recently however, the village has fallen on difficult times.
A Few Caveats:
I booked three nights at The Book Village Inn, but that’s honestly one night too many. Don’t get me wrong, the town and the inn are charming but there are numerous shuttered storefronts along the small main strip. The only two restaurants were closed. One permanently, the other (hopefully) temporarily. The latter being housed in The Book Village Inn. The nearby grocery was also shuttered. A number of the bookstores have consolidated into smaller, shared locations. A few of the locals feel it’s likely to get worse before it gets better. Still if you’re like me and just want a place to relax, this spot is just right. There are a few things to be aware of.
You can find a plethora of posts on social media that really play the area up as a booklover’s nirvana. They show a bustling main street with about a half-dozen book stores open for business seven days a week from 11am-5pm. The Book Village website itself has the hours posted stating they do change to weekends only after Columbus Day. However, I was there the week after Labor Day and several stores had already changed their hours. A few locals did say that there is usually an uptick it business during the heights of summer, it seems that recently the village has seen a downturn in visits. One local suggested that the videos are likely made by creators connected to either the travel or publishing industry.
I was lucky. I had unintentionally timed my stay so I was able to visit each of the stores, except for the one housed in the barn behind The Book Village Inn, it was closed. Other travelers I spoke to had arrived on Tuesday expecting all the stores to be open and were noticeably upset that several were not. I found other conflicting information online and around town. The Book Village Inn stated online that their cafe was closed but their bookstore was open. It was not. Onsite there were signs that the cafe was open. It was not. Google states that Liberty Rock Books — the largest of the stores — as only being open on weekends. It was open all week.
Also, with the closure of the restaurant at The Book Village Inn there’s no nightlife, if that’s what you’re looking for. Even in the next closest town of Stamford, there are a couple of breakfast and lunch spots, but no restaurants serving dinner and really nothing to do after around 3pm. The closest city with more things going on would be Delhi, which is the seat of Delaware County. That’s about a half hour drive from Hobart. However, none of this bothered me much. As I said, I was there to relax and read.
Fantasizing About Relocating:
Part of me fantasized about relocating and taking over one of the businesses. The Inn was having staffing issues. One of the bookstores was on the market as the owners are planning to retire. After all, I am taking the next few years to cultivate a working retirement and this seemed like a good option. I know I could manage the Inn. I know I could run a shop or cafe. Not to mention the more than several people I met who themselves had relocated there from Jersey City and Hoboken. To be honest though, the risk is still great. I’d eat up what little I have in savings just to make the move. And as in all business ventures, there are no guarantees.
While the downturn of the local economy here can be chalked up to staffing issues, retirement of shop owners, or management woes I can’t help but wonder if there’s more to it. After all, one of the largest corporate tenants in the area is Mallinckrodt Pharmaceuticals. An enormous 155,000-square-foot site that employs several hundred people. It seems to me there’d be a built-in, nearby audience for all manner of business. Food, recreation, retail, etc. Of course I could be overthinking this. Still, at my age, taking such a risk by moving a hundred and sixty miles away to a rural, mountain town, seperated from family, friends, and all things familiar and secure seems foolish. Instead, I will keep the area filed away for future travels.
Conclusion:
Despite all of this, I found the town to be very laid back and welcoming. Exactly what I was looking for. If you’re coming from a more bustling area looking for the same, you may need to gauge your expectations. In a village this small, there are going to be factors that can change your experience from day to day. One of the store owners had a meeting in Cooperstown, NY in the middle of the day. Not having staff to cover for him, he simply had to close that day. This is not a complaint, it’s a fact of life in rural New York.
All in all, I really liked the town and the people. I highly recommend a visit. Just keep in mind that this is not a city. It is a cozy village centered around the simple concept of retail and literary tourism. Amenities are limited but the experience is definitely worth the effort.
Cheers!
Stephen
Website -> hobartbookvillage.com
