Graz Austria: 2003 Cultural Capital of Europe

A very inspirational trip

This is the year that Graz was named the Cultural Capital of Europe. We were given the opportunity to be American Cultural Delegates of sorts. What follows is my personal recounting of the time spent in this remarkable little city with Eric, his wife Hilary and a multitude of new friends.


Day 11 – July 11, 2003

Abstract Cosbo
This was a very chill day which began with Cosbo drawing special portraits of Eric, Hilary and myself.


me

me … again?
I think the artist has truly captured 2 distinct qualities
of my psyche … and my ears … and poop

Eric

Hilary

More Homeless World Cup
Eric and Hilary went to do a little shopping and catch a couple more Soccer matches. I met up with Irina, Alex and Milan at a local outdoor cafe on Herrengasse. I showed up a little late so it was a quick visit as Alex and Milan were going to set up and perform on the street that evening. This is a very common thing in Graz. Not like NYC where you now need a permit to perform or you get a summons. For that reason there is constantly music everywhere when the weather is nice.

Irina and I walk over to try and catch a couple of the soccer matches ourselves. It was so crowded that we had to wait for security to let us in. The place was filled to the point of bursting, loud as hell and boiling with energy. The entertainment was this fantastic afro-brazilian group called Grupo Um. Lots of drums, percussion and dancing kept the whole joint jumping and happy until the matches resumed.


The crowd awaits the next match

Grupo Um keeps the joint jumpin’

We got to see the Holland vs. Denmark. We were cheering Holland because of their kind views towards marijuana and the fact that they beat the Germans so diligently in round one. Holland was once again victorious in this match. In the Austria vs. Sweden match, we felt the need to support our host country. Austria ultimately went on to win this match and the finals 2 days later.

Jazz on the Cobblestones

Milan, Alex and Alex serenading the evening pedestrians and gnats

Following these two matches, Irina and I walked around to see Alex, Milan and their guitarist, also named Alex, perform on the street.

Sweet jazz standards made for a very relaxing moment in the night. We sat on the curb and just soaked it in while fighting off the biting gnats. Our friends were performing in a small brightly lit store front and this made for an irresistible haven for the little kamikazes. Poor Alex had to try and keep her composure during the incessant attacks.

I am pleased to have met so many talented musicians her in Graz. Especially since the music of choice seems to overwhelmingly be Jazz. Growing up, all I ever heard of Austria is classical and The Sound of Music. Yes, of course classical music is widespread. This is the belly of the classical beast after all. I was witness to a number of string ensembles, but nothing at this moment could beat the bass, guitar and beautiful voice reflecting down the cobblestone hill.

An Early Night
Later, after a quick walk through Stadpark to the Park House, we decided to make it an early night. Irina had to leave for a gig in Sarajevo at like 3:00 AM.

I thought to myself that in the time it takes them to drive to Sarajevo, I’d only be in Washington, DC. Again realizing the massive size of America, the density of the population on the east coast and how we are so isolated in our huge cocoon. Such a different world.

After saying good night and promising to stay in touch, I strolled back to Norbert’s flat at a record breaking 10:30 pm.

Eric, Hilary, Norbert and I sat on chairs out behind the flat. The night was calm and we just relaxed with some beer and conversation. Of course my thoughts kept drifting away from that moment.

It was sad to think that this was the last time Irina and I would hang out on this trip. Still, I sat under the stars happy to have made such a wonderful new friend.

She and I spoke once about personal angels and how there are some people you meet who change your life. She was, and still is, such a person to me. When you get to know someone for their passion, for their dedication to a lifestyle, in this case music, it is inspirational. Especially when it is a passion you feel but, for reasons that are unclear now, have been balled up and tucked away deep behind the stress and anxiety of life.

This trip as a whole has helped, but I never expected to meet someone who would so completely embody that which I was searching for in myself. While I found a similar quality in many of the people that I met in Graz, hers is more burned into my psyche.

I had been in desperate need of inspiration in the past year or so. Though it is still hard to find at times, what I’ve learned is to look for it with more steadfast conviction.


July 2003
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