Day 2 – July 2, 2003
Leaving London
 Eric and our multitude of luggage |
After a not-so-late night of drinking, we woke up bright and early and enjoyed our complementary breakfast that the hotel. We went out to await our taxi. Now the cool refreshing climate of the night before has turned into a harsh cold dampness.
After living through the longest, most miserable NY winter in many years, I started to wonder if I would ever see the sun again. As of June 21, the first day of summer it was still 50 and raining.
We pack all of our lugage into the taxi and I go to sit up front. This is where I pull my "dumb America" bit for the trip. I almost got in the driver’s seat. Everyone laughed. It is freaky being on the other side of the road and sitting on the other side of the car. My perspective was all whacky and my brain was starting to hurt. I proclaimed that I will never attempt drive in the UK.
We make our way to Liverpool station and on to the train that would take us to Stansted Airport. We flew Ryan Air, which I describe as the metro bus of the sky. No assigned seats and if your late, they give your ticket away to the ever eager crowd waiting on standby.
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Arriving in Graz
 Keeping the control tower clean |
We also noticed that the pilots only seem concerned about a smooth flight until they get about a 3 meters off the ground. Then they positively slam it down. Fun.
Arriving in Graz, the sun was like medicine. We stood out in the heat still with our jackets on, sweating in joy. Due to construction, our friend Norbert had to park far away. There was a little more lugging of the luggage through the streets, up and over a wooden bridge, with no complaints from anyone because we were finally here. Graz; The Cultural Capital of Europe 2003! "How do you like Graz so far?" Norbert joked.
The rest of the afternoon was fairly relaxed. A few drinks, some smokes and getting reacquainted with our freinds and gracious hosts for the trip, Norbert and his girlfriend Gabi. We would get to see their sons later in the week.
 Kreische’s Marienlift |
I called up my friend Rosa who worked with me at Woman’s Day Magazine in NY during the summer of 2001. We had lost touch over time but right before my trip I decided to see if she was still living in Graz. She was and we made tentative plans to hang out.
Unfortunately, due to both of our crazy schedules, we never got to see each other. I did however find out that her father is artist Richard Kreische. A bit of information she had never told me before.
Kreische designed the Marienlift (Lift to Mary) which is located by the fountain in the historic center of Graz. It is a free-standing glass elevator that raises visitors up to the level of the Mariensäule (Mary’s Column) and offers a very unique view of the city. Rosa told me that I had to go up. My plan was to take the ride with her. So it will have to wait for my next trip.
Promo Photos
That evening we walked through the city
to pose for some promotional photos.
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| In front of the 03 Info Center and Bar [n.wally] | |
Graz was glowing blue and green with 03 everywhere. Food stands, banks, pharmacies, clothing stores, etc. all are adorned with the logos of culture. There seems to be a common pride joining businesses and people.
At first I was curious about why this was not promoted more in the US. The best reason I could come up with is that this is of and about the celebration of European culture.
Though tourism is important in events such as these, I’m sure they did not want it to become like Disneyland. With that in mind I was even more honored that we were asked to participate.
I was also surprised to find, upon my return to the US, that the throw pillows on my sofa are the same exact colors of the cultural Capital.
First Glimpse of the Island
 Eric, Hilary and Norbert entering the Island |
 Next day. My nighttime shots weren’t good. |
We got our first view of the Island on the Mur designed by NY architect Vito Acconci that night. It is a brilliant sanctuary for art and politics made of steel in water. Curves in the design create a flowing motion in the structure’s stillness as the river Mur races below and around.
The main stage is an open-air theater shaped as a bread basket. Some recent bouts with rainfall had raised some concerns, but all involved kept a positive outlook.
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| We got to watch a bit of the rehearsals going on outside | |
Inside was a café. Extremely modern in feel with cushioned arcs, funhouse mirror toilets and a long dark bar. The Café was also perfectly set up for performance with a large screen for video projection and a myriad of stage lighting to illuminate the space in a rainbow of color.
Above the bar was a control center that would make network television and NASA proud.
Cutting Through a Mountain
We left the island and took a short cut through a tunnel in the Schlossberg. Once a fortress for Napolean and sancturary for citizens in WW II, the Schlossberg is now a wooded retreat and common tourist attraction. Apparently it is a popular spot for couples to have their first kiss too.
 A view of the town after exiting the tunnel |
We topped off the night with a couple of beers at the Park House. Just like it sounds, it is a bar in the middle of the main park of Graz called Stadtpark. It’s pretty cool as you walk into this large, quiet park to slowly hear the music swell and see the lights flicker.
The only bad point was the thought that they’ve been shying away from live music recently to focus on DJs and more techno-house sounds. Admittedly the music was pretty terrible, but the atmosphere of this outdoor venue and the fun attitude of the people still made it a good time.
Before heading home, we stopped to eat at a Hot Dog stand. No boiled dirty water dogs here. Bratwurst, schnitzel sandwiches, hamburgers, these are like the 7-11 late night beer absorbing snack stops of Graz. I had a schnitzel sandwich with lettuce and garlic sauce. I was hooked. It became a regular thing for me to seek out these stands to get my fix of Schnitzel.
 July 2003 |
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| 13 | 14 | 15 | Graz Links | |||
