Day 8 – July 8, 2003
Rare Oslo Sighting
The day begins with another rare Oslo sighting as Norbert and Gabi’s youngest son Beno does the dishes.
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As crazy as the afternoons and nights have been, the mornings are always very relaxing. There is something in the air here, or something in the beer. I never woke up with a hangover. And believe me I should have. Every time Irise from my slumber, I am greeted by a new day that is filled with discovery.
OK, yes I know .. I’m on a vacation from the pressures of life in NY, but that is exactly my point. Sure, if i moved here I may get board after a period of time. However, before that boredome sets in, I want to learn all I can about this place and these people.
The reality of life is not lost on me. I am not living some wishful thinking fantasy. The fact is that I may never get the opportunity to actually move here. My "plan b" (and it’s always good to have one) is to simply come here as often as I can and for as long as I can. Using Graz as a springboard to experience other parts of Europe.
Contributing to the Local Paper
Eric, Hilary and I were asked to contribute an article to publication Norbert works on called 03 Live. It is a weekly account of all things going on as part of the Cultural Capital. I took on the job of editor, but decided to shun my responsibilities for the day. Don’t worry; I still got the story in on time. Much of it has been expanded upon and used in this summary.
From 03 Live: Yankees in Graz
We; Hilary, Eric and Stephen came to Graz for 2 reasons. To escape the oppressive and creatively stifled New York art/music scene and to be a part of the 2003 Cultural Capital. An event that due to money, apathy and a sheer lack of creativity simply would not happen in the US.
The birth of a nation, Acconci an der Mur: A brilliant sanctuary of steel and water, art and politics. Curves in the design create a flowing motion in the stillness. The Republic of Acconci was incorporated on 3 July 2003 in a ceremony that combined all of the pageantry of a political inaugeration and the (staged) awkwardness of a poorly organized community theater. There in lies the genius of the people behind this project in which the boundaries between theater and reality no longer exist. It is the safest nation on earth and, if one needs, they can request asylum from oppression and spend a night in peace. We had the honor of performing there on 2 occassions.
Mountain of Memories: A visually stimulating and very personal history of Graz. Some would say that they created this mountain to bury their past. To hide the painful points from plain view. Others could argue that now the past has a place where people can spend the day and study. To think and to learn about the elements that make a city. Still others could say that this was a form of therapy. A way to face the future by accepting the past. From toys for children to mechanical break throughs to the Holocaust and every thing in between. Whatever the reasons, there is much to remember in this city’s near 1000 year existence.
Oskar is currently residing in the Mountain of Memories, his permanent home is the center most point of Graz. A solemn stoic figure who seems to generate emotions from all who see him. Sad, strong, peaceful, contemplative and even violent. Poor Oskar once lost his head when a drunkard picked a fight with him. But he can be proud in the knowledge that he is the most photographed landmark in Graz.
Phantom der Lust: If masochism did not already have a place in social-sexual history, it would after this showing. An intense depiction of Masoch and his affinity for being physically and mentally abused in the name of sexual gratificaton. Perhaps there is a political message behind this. The world’s citizens are all abused for the pleasure of those above us. Or it is just a critical view of pain as pleasure between two or more consenting adults.
Homless World Cup: Conceived by the Graz street paper MEGAPHON, this event brought together teams of homeless soccer players from all over the world. Their intention was to stimulate awareness of the growing problem of homelessness as well as build character and confidence in the players. The opening match was between Holland and Germany. Holland won 14 to 0 and this seemed to be very amusing to the Austrian people. Of course we showed our support for the New York Team.
We live in what many call the new Roman Empire. Should we escape to Graz before our Empire falls? Here at least we are protected by mountains and the love of our friends.
Thank you Graz for allowing us to not only witness the 2003 Cultural Capitol, but be a part of it.
Hilary Gilles – Photographer
Eric Schmitz – Artist, Musician
Stephen Bailey – Writer, Musician
NYC, USA
The Sandy Lopicic Orkestar
I hopped on a tram at Jakominiplatz (the transit hub of Graz) and made my way across town to Irina’s apartment. There I drank herbal tea and ate some Toblerone as we waited for her friend Martin do come pick us up.
Later, I found myself sipping hot chocolate and smoking cigarettes in a studio in Maribor, Slovenia. Irina invited me to sit in on a mixing session of the Sandy Lopicic Orkestar. Irina is one of 3 vocalists in this group of 14 very talented individuals and Martin plays sax.
I still have to get used to the fact that we were in another country in the same 45 minutes it takes me to travel 9 miles from my house to midtown Manhattan during rush hour.
Hailing from many parts of Europe they combine violins, vocals, horns, hurdy-gurdy and more to fashion a modern feel to a traditional Eastern European foundation. Add a pinch of Jazz flavor and the results are simply amazing.
I was like a kid on Christmas morning as I sat and watched them mix these tracks. I’ve always been fascinated with the workings of a studio and the production of sound, but I’m even more fascinated by the creation of a truly unique music.
To quote from their website:
What’s keeping this orchestra together is love for music from the former Yugoslavia, and the main idea is to show people how rich the cultural heritage of the Balkans is – and also, that the Balkan people were and are not only bunch of lunatics and maniacs killing and massacring each other, but that all those people used to live, love and create beautyful music together.
Singing at the Sagewerk
Later that night, Irina and I were walking and talking along the quiet streets of Graz when we heard some music. The violin, guitar and singing grew louder as we turned the corner. We settled in to the Sagewerk (the best pizza in town, by the way) where a group of local musicians were having an impromptu jam session.
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Once inside, the bar patrons coaxed Irina to sing a couple of songs. We all had fun with some standards, Johnny Cash, U2, Joplin and others.
They were trying ot figure out the words to Ring of Fire. Of course me being American they all assumed that I must know the words. I knw enough to get through a few bars and then I lost it.
I was asked to sing one of my songs and that’s when it hit me … I can’t. Well, I could, but I never really do. This, though embarrasing for a moment, also inspired me to change my outlook a bti. I’ve spent so much time rigidly working on a specific role I play in a band, that I never allow myself to just let go and perform.
At one point when we were just milling about, ordering our beer and whatnot, out of nowhere, Irina, originally from Kosovo, belted out this beautifully powerful tune, which told the story of a woman’s wartime loss. I already knew the intensity of her voice, but here I was not 18 inches away from her.
I get chills whenever I think of that passion I could see in her eyes and feel in her voice. That is something that I have lost in myself and see it fading away around me. This was not a depressing revelation, just a swift kick back into the reality of who I was, who I wanted to be and who I am. Now is the time to synchronize.
This was another example of the many nights spent with new friends. Talking politics, laughing, singing and drinking until the wee hours of the morning. Countless times found me walking home to the sound of aggressive morning birds and taxis wondering if I needed a ride. The sun would rise as I turned onto the street where I was staying and I would smile knowing I had just spent an evening with completely amazing people.
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