Graz Austria: 2003 Cultural Capital of Europe

A very inspirational trip

This is the year that Graz was named the Cultural Capital of Europe. We were given the opportunity to be American Cultural Delegates of sorts. What follows is my personal recounting of the time spent in this remarkable little city with Eric, his wife Hilary and a multitude of new friends.


Day 6 – July 6, 2003

Berg der Erinnerungen
We started our day with a stroll to the Berg der Erinnerungen (Mountain of Memories). We were joined by Norbert’s older son Sebastian. Better known to all of us as Cosbo, he seemed to delight in trying to cause me bodily harm. Seriously though, both of Norbert and Gabi’s sons are wonderful kids. Since I spoke no German and they spoke no English, we resorted to a lot of physical games to keep each other amused.


Norbert with Cosbo

Enter the mountain [n.wally]

The Mountain of Memories is a visually stimulating and very personal history of Graz tucked deep inside the Schlossberg.

Where other cities have skyscrapers, Graz has this little mountain called the Schlossberg. Once a fortress for Napoleon and a safe haven for those seeking shelter during WW I and II, it is now a green retreat for the people.

More than that, it is a place to see shows, eat in several cafes and of course stand in quiet contemplation overlooking the city. Now with the addition of the Mountain of Memories, it offers a way for us to learn about Graz.

Some would say that this concept of a Mountan of Memories was created to bury the past. A method in which to hide the painful points from plain view.

Others could argue that now the past has a place where people can spend the day and study. To think and to learn about the elements that make a city.

I personally look at it as a form of therapy. Facing the future by accepting the past. From toys for children to mechanical break-throughs to the Holocaust to music and every thing in between.

Whatever the reasons, there is much to remember in this city’s near 1000 year existence. Since most, if not all, of the reminents that are displayed were supplied by the citizens of Graz, it offers a very intimate glimpse into the lives of these people. Not just a history lesson from a book written by who knows who back who knows when. From the mundane to the absurd, it is a very complete lesson indeed.

Images from the Mountain of Memories

Meeting Oskar
Oskar is a statue currently residing in the Mountain of Memories, his permanent home is the center most point of Graz. A solemn stoic figure who seems to generate emotions from all who see him.

Sad, strong, peaceful, contemplative and even violent. Poor Oskar once lost his head when a drunkard picked a fight with him. But he can be proud in the knowledge that he is the most photographed landmark in Graz.

Images from the Mountain of Memories

Sagewerk: The Best Pizza in Town
First let me clarify … this is not the thin sliced pizza we have in NYC. In my opinion the best pizza on the planet is still Joe’s on Bleecker & Carmine.

This is more of a personal pizza in the traditional Italian style which I believe simply means you can get whatever the heck you can imagine on this thing.

The list of choices at the Sagewerk was massive. You’re handed a laundry list looking piece of paper and a pencil. You chose the size you wanted and 4 toppings. A bit much for my hungry head to handle, but I managed. I think I got the ham, mushroom, mozzarella and provolone. Oh, and a beer … of course.

Another quirky thing I noticed was how sidewalk cafes are set up in Graz. They basically cordon off a handful of parking spaces, build a platform with a wall or fence around it and put up some tables. It may sound slap-dash, but it’s not. These are very quaint and comfortable places to enjoy a meal.

I would find myself in this place, eating the pizza, drinking the beer and just having a fine time on several occassions.


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