Graz Austria: 2003 Cultural Capital of Europe

A very inspirational trip

This is the year that Graz was named the Cultural Capital of Europe. We were given the opportunity to be American Cultural Delegates of sorts. What follows is my personal recounting of the time spent in this remarkable little city with Eric, his wife Hilary and a multitude of new friends.


Day 5 – July 5 , 2003

Lunch on a Mountain
On the afternoon of the 5th, we went to lunch at a mountaintop eatery called Schöcklbartl where we met Norbert’s mother and his 2 boys Cosbo and Beno. Don’t ask me why, but I forgot to take my camera with me on that day.

I was kicking myself because the view was breathtaking as I stood in near total silence gazing over the countryside. I watched as children played on the dangerous looking wooden swings and other playground accoutrements.

During lunch, the boys were playing a game called table bandit. This is where they sneak around from one place setting to another and steal a fork full of food from your plate. I of course joined in and stole some of their food.

After lunch we walked down a trail to where there was a natural spring that is said to have healing qualities. All who visit are supposed to drink from the spigot and dip their feet into the large concrete catch basin. I took a drink, but passed on the dipping of the feet. I instead walked further down to the bottom of the hill where I could see a gaggle of roosters wandering around.

Eric went off into the woods looking for bears or lions or some ferocious animals. Finding only more roosters, he returned to the well. Apparently there are no such creatures in all of Austria. I find this hard to believe so I will need to look more when I return.

It was at this very moment that I had a life changing experience. I had been feeling lost for a very long time. Finding no happiness in NY. As the breeze caressed my face and the silence broken by laughter and running water, I knew that I could make a home here. Maybe not forever, but for a while at least.

I have been on vacations before when I would say, "I could live here." I would repeat my thoughts out loud as if to convince myself that it was wrong. Most times I would, however this time there was no inner feeling calling me to stop. We’ll just have to see what the future brings. I’m so upset that I forgot my camera on that day. 

Oslo the Disappearing Cat
Hey! It’s Oslo the disappearing cat!! This cat would appear whenever I was working at the computer or sometimes he’d wake me for food. Then he would leap out of the window and not be seen for days.

It was clear he had not run away, because his food would still get eaten and his litter box contained evidence of his existence. He was just very skilled at covert maneuvers. Perhaps the CIA could use a good cat.

Club Acconci, Second Time Around
This night was pretty much a repeat of the previous night. The difference being that both the XY Files and Club Acconci were outside. this made for a very nice time performing in the cool evening breeze.

It also made the Titanic climax of the show more affective as our host and hostess raced to the highest point on the theater and embraced in the wind.


A moment of titanic proportions

We capped off this night with the debut of the 2003 song that Eric and Norbert wrote. Helping us on vocals were some of the characters from Club Acconci as well as the audience.


After the show … smiles everyone … smiles

Theatre Cafe
The Theatre Cafe is a well known after-hours spot famous for its extensive variety of toast. Yes, as cool as toast is, there are actually many different varieties available. Mostly different types of bread and cheese.

The place has the look of a VFW hall with an eastern Eurpean twist. It is also set up for the occasional live music performance.

Anyway, the term after-hours is a bit weird in Graz. The bars basically do not adhere to the same strict open/close rules as in NY. I had been in so many places during my trip at all hours of the day and night it made me to think that the bars simply don’t close.

Irina and I went to the Theatre Cafe one night and inadvertantly discovered their closing time. It was at about 5:30 or so that the waitress politely asked us to leave. We had been talking so long that we did not realize the the place was empty.

One thing that happened to me a lot in Graz was loosing track of time. We swung the door open and there was the sun to greet us. We both graoned with the same feeling of disbelief. Certainly not disapointment.


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