Day 12 – July 12, 2003
The morning brought some bad news. Our contact at the BBC phoned to tell us that Harris Pankin would be in the hospital for the next 6 days and would not be able to make the gig at the Running Horse that night. Since he was the focus of their film, they too would miss the gig. His "illness" was shrouded in mystery. All they would tell us is that he "over did it a bit" the night before.
This would turn out to be the most physically draining of the trip for us.
High Above the Kunsthaus
We decided to take a trip up the quaint Schlossberg later that day. We had a choice to take the lift or the cable car. Why we chose to walk I will never know. The realization of this being a bad choice became clear only a few meters into the climb up the trail. My poor lungs, heart and legs were very upset with this coarse of action. So I stopped and smoked another cigarette just to shut them up. Not one of my better decisions I will admit.
 The new biomorphic Kunsthaus |
From up here you can see the curious new design of the Kunsthaus. One thing that Graz has is an identity crisis. Along with it’s millennium old history and the architecture that stands witness to that time, she has ultra modern tendencies springing up all over. So incredibly out of place with its ancient counterparts that it actually works. The Kunsthaus is a perfect example of that.
Meant to be the city’s center for art and art history, it is an odd, avant-garde structure that quite frankly looks like an enormous cow’s heart. It is a shame that it was not completed in time for the Cultural Capital 2003 because it looks as though it will be a very interesting place.
 Acconci an der Mur peaking past the houses |
 A great view of the city |
The Uhrturm
We stopped to have lunch at the Starcke-Haus. Yet another of the many quaint mountainside cafes found here. After a relaxing lunch, we continued our ascent.
Until you come here and you see the buildings, it is hard to imagine how old they really are. The way that they curve and bend from the shifitng forces of ancient graviety.
 Our lunchtime retreat |
 Curved roofs show their age |
 The Clock Tower and it’s Shadow |
Located on the top of the Schlossberg is the The Uhrturm (clock tower). Its been ticking the time away since 1712 with one of its famous bells dating back to 1382. However, the origins of the tower are even older than that.
Records from Bohemian King Ottokar’s reign over Styria mention the tower at around 1265. The tower was brought to its present-day form in 1560 during the reconstruction of the fortress.
During Napoleon’s time of the French Wars in the late 1700s, travellers could hear the sounds of an organ known as the Styrian Horn. It was played to mark both the opening and closing of the city gates each day. The organ has been gone since around 1805.
As part of the 2003 Cultural Capital, the clock tower has been given an extra three-dimensional shadow in the form of a steel construction. The Uhrturm And Its Twin was a project concieved and created by artist Markus Wilfling. It is meant show how our perception shapes our reality.
Sister Cities
Everyone has a reason for wanting to take this walk. Mine was simple. There is mural at the top that proclaims Montclair, NJ as one of the cultural sister cities of Graz. Norbert and Eric had been telling me this for years, but I had to see proof.
 |
 |
Eric and I joked about how, since Montclair has a French sounding name, the folks here thought it was a European town. Now they are stuck with doing cultural and academic exchanges with a town in New Jersey. OK Jersey people … don’t get mad at us. We were only joking.
There is also a plaque in the Montclair Town Hall and a small patch of green called Graz Park. I’ve yet to see them, but then again, I’ve never really looked for them.
 |
We also came across another piece of art by Richard Kreische. This one was created for the Russian Cosmonauts. I’m not sure of the whole story behind it. I think that the placement of the symbols are somehow related to the music of the Blue Danube. The combination of the two can then be decoded into some sort of a message.
World Radio Debut
After walking back down to the street level, Eric, Norbert and I were off to the local radio station 97.9 FM for an interview. It would also be the official international debut of our CD "All Is Not Lost."
|
 |
| Can you tell we just walked down a mountain? | |
We were very lucky to have gotten on at their most popular time of the day. This would prove to be helpful later on when several people told me that came to the Running Horse show because they heard about it on the radio.
Here are some mp3 excerpts:
Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.
Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.
Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.
Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.
Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.
Thanks to everyone at 97.9 FM for their hospitality and support. They truly made our unveiling a treat.
The Running Horse
Now we needed to get to the rehearsal studio to prepare for our gig that night at the Running Horse. Playing with the same group of talented people made the rehearsal go very smoothly. Even with having to play several new songs for the first time, I did not have the anxiety I had before our first rehearsal
We got to the bar early and of course I was hungry. They kept teasing me that I must have a tapeworm because I just ate all the time. So anyway I get an order of toast and a Jack & Coke.
Remember how I said most places here cannot mix a good highball. Well The Running Horse can. It’s a small, rustic looking English-style pub known for having great live music.
We were starting to get a bit worried. It had been raining off and on for most of the evening and now it was 9:00 and the bar was still empty. Graz is a town that is very fickle when it comes to weather. Thankfully though, as Eric and I got up to do our first set, the place filled up. As it turned out, the combination of the radio interview and an announcement in the local paper Kleine Zeitung helped to draw the people in.
That first set was just Eric, myself and my pedals. I like this new setup. I’m using a Boss GT-3 Multi Effects unit and the new Adrenalinn. This box cranks out tempo based effects and can generate 2 bar drum patterns. The coolest part though is the fact that you can turn off the drum sounds, but still have them running through the effects. This produces some out of the ordinary rhythmic moods. I’ve split the guitar signal so I can have switch between either unit or use them simultaneously.
 Portnoy |
 Spuk |
Two local bands came up and did a short set each. Portnoy, who I wrote about in day 7 started their set with the singer Heimo’s young son counting off.
Then came Spuk. They are basicaly the same lineup as Portnoy, less the singer and keyboards. Marcus, who plays guitar in Portnoy, takes over as lead singer in Spuk. They rocked through 2 exhilarating tunes with an energy level to match.
At one point in the night, our freinds fron Club Acconci got up and sang a couple of songs as well. This was turning out to be a wonderful party.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| [h.gilles] | |
One More Set
We finished our last set with an even longer and more insane version of our 2003 Theme Song and of course New York.
It got so intense at one point that I actually sliced open the palm of my hand on the guitar strings (sorry for any blood on the pick guard Norbert). I had borrowed Norbert’s new Telecaster for this and the Explosiv gig. By this time all funds in my energy bank were depleted.
Then Tomaz, the guy who runs the joint comes in. He had been in Vienna and missed our sets. Seeing how crowded the place was, and wanting to know what we sounded like, he insisted that we do another set.
Well, not only was my energy tapped, so was our set list. Remember, we only had several hours of rehearsal time together. Eric and Norbert pulled a few covers out from up their sleeves. I faked my way through and we reprised Razor Dog and New York and called it a night. For real this time and Tomaz thanked us with a shot of 16 year old scotch.
 |
 |
 |
 |
| It’s up to you New York, New York | |
After the Show
Through out the night, I would wander over to talk to another new friend named Karin. A pretty girl with an infectious smile. She kept apologizing for her poor English. I told her not to worry, I’m from NY where no one speaks English.
Karin, who is a speech therapist for children, has been quickly added to my list for wanting to return to Graz. We’ve been in touch via email since I left and she even invited me to her birthday party in September. I know I’ll be going back soon, just not sure when. I told her that, since we are both born in September, no matter when I get back we need to have a drink to celebrate.
I was happy to see Alex and Milan had come to the show. Upon saying goodbye, We gave each other all hugs and kisses. I said that I hope to see them again. Milan put both hand on my shoulders, looked me square in the eyes and said, "It will happen." The convincing certainty in his voice makes me know that it is true. The intensity of that moment has stayed with me.
This was I think the best overall show we did here judging by the elation of the crowd, the enthusiasm of the bar staff who were pumping us with cocktails and the giddy feeling in my gut. At the end of the night the staff were wearing Ya-Ne-Zniyoo t-shirts and grinning like cheshire cats.
Thanks to Tomaz, Alex and everyone at the Running Horse for making this such a wonderful night for us.
The Q Bar
After we drank and mingled a bit more, we loaded up the car. Eric, Hilary, Norbert, Anne and I headed to a bar called Q which is the oldest metal mlub in Graz. This place has the feel of an abandoned old subway station.
I was instantly transported back in time to the old Pipeline in Newark circa 1990. The thick clouds of stage smoke coated my tongue, the strobe lights were beginning to cause deep tremours behind my pupils and the music was so loud that it was little more than a painful buzz to my eardrums.
I discovered that Foosball is very popular in Graz. There was a table in almost every place we went. Even the vampires in such a dark, hardcore cavern such as this played foosball.
| images from clubq.at | |
|
 |
 |
 |
The worst part had to be the men’s room. Nothing but a tile wall with cascading water to piss on. I have a hard enough time with a shy bladder. It did not help that all the guys in there ceremoniously checked out everyone’s junk as they pissed. Sorry boys, but I need my privacy.
New Friends at Brandhof
The Q got pretty tiring, so Anne and I decided to leave. I offered to walk her back to the rehearsal space where her car was parked. From there I would walk to Norbert’s flat. As we walked, we came across a place called the Brandhof.
A very nice looking restaurant popular with the Opera House crowd. In front is a tree filled garden that looks very cozy. Anne noticed that the proprietors Franz and Andrea were still inside. Being friends of theirs, she said we should go in. She also wanted to she me that her picture was up on the wall with the many celebrities that had performed at the opera house.
As with most of my meetings in Graz, the first question was, "So, what do you think of your president?" What I found was that these people were not looking to argue. You get so used to that here in the States. Instead they were simply fishing for your thoughts. In the states everyone wants to tell you their opinion The people I met here would rather first learn your opinion. I’ve been fortunate that for the most part I agree with the rest of the world’s view of the US government.
This was a very pleasant night of political discussions and points of revelation about the nightlife in NY. I’ve had this very conversation with several people here and they are all amazed by the extreme puritanical values in what is supposed to be the craziest city on earth. The best part was explaining to them what a cabaret license was. They could not even grasp the concept of having to pay a fee to the city in order to allow people to dance.
"We’ve had people on the tables dancing and some parties here. And were not even a nightclub," proclaimed Andrea.
They talked about their homemade schnapps. "All we have is peppermint or peach," I said. They cringed. Franz got up, went to the back and brought out a bottle of their own strawberry schnapps. Again, something you can’t do in America is make and sell your own liquor without paying a serious amount of money for a license.
With this Franz looks at me and simply shakes head and says, "Land of the free?"
The conversation jumped around from Arnold running for governor of California (he was born in Graz) to Michael Moore’s Bowling for columbine and Stupid White Men. Somehow we got on the subject of Britney Spears. The hours flew by as usual. After one more schnapps, it was time to go.
As planned earlier, I walked Anne to her car, we said goodnight and I walked home. I got to the flat where they were supposed to leave the key for me to get in. I figured they were too drunk to remember since there was no key to be found. So I rang the bell. Gabi let me in and that’s when I realized it was 6:30 and Norbert, Hilary and Eric were still not home.
They came a little after me and told me of this bar they went to. Can’t remember the name, but it is a popular place for hookers, drug dealers and pimps. As skanky as it sounds, Eric and Hilary just wanted to check it out. Apparently it lived up to it’s skanky reputation.
 July 2003 |
||||||
| Sun | Mon | Tue | Wed | Thu | Fri | Sat |
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | ||
| 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| 13 | 14 | 15 | Graz Links | |||
